Eight months after departing Dior, Chiuri’s return to fashion’s front bench was stamped with her identity and values

A big name designer’s first catwalk show in a new job is a drumroll moment of pure ego: Maria Grazia Chiuri, who joins Fendi after leaving Dior, is a headline-making hire with main character energy.

The first surprise, as Milan fashion week began, was a catwalk painted with the motto: “Less I, more us.”